The Hardtop hybrid design combines Walker Bay’s patented 6″ thick AirWeb construction with RigiDeck non-skid fiberglass steps, providing an inflatable SUP that is stiff, tracks well, and feels firm underfoot while paddling.

While each of the three models features bungee attachment points for storing gear, the Hardtop SUV 11 and Stubby 9 also include seat attachments points, allowing sit-down paddling with purchase of an optional backrest. And with a special appeal to fishing folks, the Hardtop SUV 11 comes with rod and tackle box attachment points.

Features and specs on each of the Hardtop series:

Hardtop Tour 12.5
Length: 12′ 6″
Width: 2′ 7″
Thickness: 6 inches
Weight: 34 lbs
Storage dimensions: 26 x 10.2 x 19.7 inch
MSRP: $1099

Hardtop SUV 11
Length: 11′
Width: 2′ 7″
Thickness: 6 inches
Weight: 26.5 lbs
Storage dimensions: 26 x 10.2 x 19.7 inch
MSRP: $899

Hardtop Stubby 9
Length: 9′
Width: 2′ 7″
Thickness: 6 inches
Weight: 20 lbs
Storage dimensions: 26 x 10.2 x 19.7 inch
MSRP: $749

Each of the ISUPs come with large rear skegs, Rigideck Fiberglass steps, rear grip pads for better back traction, gear attachment points, AirPack backpack, high-pressure dual-mode handpump with pressure gauge and repair kit.

The Airis Hardtop line will be available in early June. Watch the Airis product pages at http://www.AirKayaks.com for upcoming details.

We have been waiting nearly a year for the second generation to arrive – the AE1041 AirFusion Elite. The new AirFusion Elite features a streamlined set up procedure with fewer poles, while a wider beam of 28″ makes the AirFusion Elite roomier, more stable on the water and allows for an integrated rear storage hatch providing easy access to gear.

Just this week the first AirFusion Elite arrived, a double cardboard box measuring 36x24x11 inches and weighing in at 43 lbs.

Getting Started

The kayak comes with the standard Advanced Elements carrying case – rugged enough to ship as aircraft baggage. Weight is approximately 36 lbs in the bag.

We unpacked the kayak and laid out the parts – three aluminum tubes with a quick-snap shock-cord system (similar to most tent pole setups), a small floor cushion, the seat, two air bags, repair kit and the kayak itself.

The manual is well-written, easy to follow, though initially a little daunting. After the first read-through it seemed simple enough – piece together the poles, position the floor cushion, insert bottom pole through the thwarts connecting both ribs, pump up side chambers partially, pump up thwarts, finish pumping up side chambers, attach seat, pump up coaming tube. Done!

AirFusion Elite Setup/Inflation

Unfold the kayak body, locating the kayak bow (front) and stern (rear) – this is easy as the integrated storage hatch is located at the stern.

Layout the bow and stern thwarts. Each of these is tapered. The front airbag (which also acts as a footbrace) is larger than the rear airbag, while the larger side of each airbag faces the cockpit/center.  Lay them out in correct orientation next to the kayak.

Next, put the foam floor into position by setting the wider end in the cockpit – this will position the small rectangular cutout over the velcro tabs in the floor. Make sure you pull the velcro tab through the cutout. Tip: the foam floor only covers the area where your feet rest.

The AdvancedFrame series features two aluminum ribs – a vertically-positioned, foot-long Vee/U-shaped flat bar that is inserted in the bow and stern of the kayaks. The AirFusion Elite has the same bow and stern aluminum ribs, except they are tubular, allowing the pole frame to be inserted/attached. In the new AirFusion Elite, these two ribs are already installed.

There are three aluminum numbered poles, and one sleeve; these snap together easily and quickly.

Connect and layout each of the poles.

To install the frame, take pole #1 and insert it through the sleeve on the underside of the front thwart, making sure that the numbered side is pointing toward the cockpit. Then, insert the thwart into the bow of the kayak, pole side down. Open up the front top zipper (a little narrow for larger hands) – inside is a mass of velcro, at the bottom is the receiving tube. Slide tube #1 up and insert into the bow bottom tube. Note – it is a little easier to insert if you give it a slight twist while pushing.

Next insert pole #2. Once again, push this through the sleeve on the bottom of the rear thwart, with the number facing the cockpit. Then insert the thwart into the stern of the kayak, also with pole side down. Open up the rear hatch cover, and push the velcro out of the way to locate the rear bottom tube. Again, insert pole 2 into the stationary bottom tube opening.

Take the connector sleeve #3, and slip it over pole #2 with the hole facing pole #1 (or put it on pole #1 with the hole facing away from pole #2).

Push down on both pole #1 and #2 until they pop into position, forming one long pole.

Slide connector three over the connection point of the two poles, to lock in place with the receiving push pin.

As an aside, this was quite frustrating until I “got the hang of it.” The trick is making sure the two poles are on absolutely equal planes, otherwise the connecting sleeve will not slide. As a suggestion, push down on the poles without putting your fingers underneath, or possibly assemble over a dimple in the ground. If you try to grasp the pole, it will pull up slightly making it impossible to slide.

I also had trouble popping poles #1 and #2 together, until I realized I had “tugged” the pole out of the front integrated tube. Once I put it back in place, it popped together fairly easily.

There are two sets of velcro on the floor (one poking through the cutout in the floor). Wrap these around the center floor pole, forcing the bottom pole to be centered. This performs a similar function to the “backbone” used in the AdvancedFrame series.

Locate the sleeve on the “underside” of the top bow hull. Take pole #4 and push it through the sleeve, and guide it into the top bow tube. Make sure the rounded side is facing the cockpit. Frame is now done!

Here is where I veer a little from the instructions. According to the manual, the next step is to attach the seat. But the seat gets in the way of inflation, so I next inflated the kayak.

There are seven inflation chambers: Four side chambers (top and bottom each side) and two airbags/thwarts utilizing Boston valves. The seventh is a twistlock valve on the coaming tube.

Inflation of the side chambers – even to 4.5 PSI – is surprisingly easy. They suggest 7 pumps each initially, then inflate the two thwarts to 2PSI, then top the kayak sides off to 4.5 PSI and inflate the coaming tube to 1PSI.

Each of the main tubes utilize Boston valves – these are two-way screw-on valves. The bottom portion is threaded onto the kayak,while the top valve is screwed open for inflation and then tightened shut after inflation. Air is easily released by unscrewing the base connector. A flap inside the valve opens when air is pumped into the kayak, and falls shut when not pumped so that air will not rush back out. These valves can use the “friction” fit Boston valve connector found on most pumps, or Advanced Elements’ proprietary screw-on adaptor.

Partially inflate the four side chambers, starting with the lower bladders – about 7 pumps each will give it some shape.

Next position and pump up the thwarts. This is probably the most critical step in the process to ensure a balanced setup. Line up the rear thwart with the line printed on the kayak body. It is important to keep the rear thwart at full inflation of 2 PSI; its function is to spread the sides, and the full airbag is used in weight capacity calculations. Make sure the thwarts/airbags are even across the floor, and the side chambers even with the thwarts.

The instructions suggest aligning the front thwart to a line on the floor – this is now covered with the floor cushion, so just line it up at the front edge of the floor initially. The front thwart is where you will modify for legroom, so this position will probably change. Pump the thwart up to 2 PSI, taking care to make sure the thwart is flat on the floor, and not on top of the side chambers.

Finish pumping up the main chambers to 4.5PSI.  (Please note: Most pressure gauges work on back-pressure. As the Boston valve has a flap that shuts once pumping stops, the gauges will only read as the stroke is being made, and then will return to zero.)

Position the seat at the “edge” of the floor cushion and attach the seat utilizing two forward clips and two rear clips. Do not put the seat farther back, as it will upset the balance – if you need more legroom, partially deflate and adjust the front thwart.

Inflate the coaming tube to 1 PSI using the Boston valve adaptor OVER the twist lok. This helps keep water from running into the seating well.

Last step, locate the velcro tabs on the underside of the kayak upper hull (behind the seat) and fasten the long thwart “bronchial tube” out of the way. Do the same with the front thwart, utilizing interior velcro tabs above the top left bladder. You’re done!

AirFusion Elite Features and Specifications

The AirFusion Elite kayak material is a semi-smooth PVC tarpaulin outer skin. The inner inflation bladders are PVC covered with a dense sailcloth; the high thread count is more impervious to water and less susceptible to stretching.

Numbered aluminum ribs – made by a company specializing in folding frames – are anodized making them resistant to salt spray.

There are two molded rubber handles located at the bow and stern – this would be great if you were paddling with someone else, but it is just as easy to carry the kayak hooked over your shoulder.

The front access zippered opening is 9.5 inches long.

A front bungee deck lacing system is roughly 15 to 16 inches wide by 12 inches deep, with 6 d-rings for attaching gear. It is located approximately 33 inches in front of the paddler.

The tapered cockpit opening of 33 x 16 inches (at the widest point) will take a spray skirt; this begins about 66 inches from the bow.

With the thwarts positioned on the printed lines, there is roughly 43 inches of leg room from the seat back to front thwart, about 8 inches behind the seat and 13 inches of interior headroom.

The padded seat base is 13.5 inches deep by 15.5 inches wide and 1.5 inches thick. The back is 10 inches tall by 19 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick.

There are three pockets on the back of the seat – two mesh drawstring and one with a velcroed flap that houses the repair kit. Two larger adjustable front straps attach to d-rings on the side bladders – each of these also has a small d-ring which can be used to tie off the optional AirFusion skeg. Two smaller adjustable straps attach to rear d-rings behind the seat. By ratcheting all four, the seat becomes fairly sturdy.

There are four d-rings on top of the hull, directly behind the paddler. These are positioned 14 to 17.5 inches apart and 9 inches deep.

A new integrated rear cargo hatch is located 12 inches behind the paddler. The opening measures 15 x 9 inches with roll-top closure and velcroing cover with handle. Inside is approximately 24 inches in length, starting at 9-10 inches in diameter and tapering down for stashing interior gear.

There is no tracking fin, but two integrated landing plates are located on the hull underside.

Two endcaps give a streamlined finish to the kayak bow and stern. A small hole in the rear endcap was designed to accept the optional skeg.

We did measurements. The kayak measured 13 feet 3.5 inches from tip to tip and – while the specs say 28 inches wide – we measured this one at 26 inches wide. Payload is 235 lbs paddler and gear.

AE1040 AirFusion versus AE1041 AirFusion Elite: What’s Different

For those familiar with the original AirFusion, there are several design changes made in the AirFusion Elite version.

These include:

• Wider 28 inch beam versus the original 23″ beam, making the AirFusion Elite roomier and more stable. (AirKayaks note: I measured 26 versus 24 inches, but it certainly feels roomier inside the Elite)
• The number of poles/sleeve was reduced from 7 plus sleeve to 3 plus sleeve, streamlining the setup process.
• D-rings are now found on the seat clips to allow tie off of an optional skeg cording, or attaching some other type of gear.
• The front bungee deck lacing was decreased from a depth of 16 inches to 11 inches.
• New end caps on the bungee cording give it a more streamlined look
• The floor space is now 15 to 16 inches wide.

• The rear bungee deck lacing and zipper were replaced with d-rings and the integrated storage hatch, allowing room for more cargo and easier access.
• Since the new beam is wider, the silhouette of the hull is a bit softer looking
• The cockpit opening is the same size, but reshaped. The new opening features more of a “teardrop” shape, allowing better control/attachment of the spray skirt.
• The tube size in the Elite is 7 inches in diameter, up from 5.5 inches. In conjunction with the wider beam, this gives a much roomier interior.
• The rear thwart size was cut almost in half, giving more room for interior storage.

AirFusion Elite On the Water

I took out the AirFusion Elite on a calm day. First of all, the front thwart position at the “printed line” was a little far for my 5’4″ size – moving it closer 3 to 4 inches worked better.

The AirFusion Elite is roomy, paddled beautifully and – despite the much narrower beam than my AdvancedFrameDS – felt quite stable. Using a GPS, I clocked myself at a top speed of 5.2 mph, running about 3.5 to 3.7 mph average over a short distance.

Those that read our original AirFusion review may recall I attempted to stand up, and ended up in the water.  We are pleased to report that I tried again in the AirFusion Elite, and did manage to stand for a second or two. While I didn’t take a dive, it’s not something I would suggest.

My 6′ 2″ husband then took out the AirFusion Elite. He was impressed with how roomy the interior felt and – despite it being somewhat choppy water – how much more stable the kayak seemed. He also found that moving the thwart just past the edge of the foam floor line (roughly maximum amount of 45 inches from back of seat to brace) was adequate for his legroom.

As with the original AirFusion, the hull is rugged and will pass over barely submerged rocks without a “bump.”

One other thing I noted is that the wider beam decreases some of the “drifting” found in the original AirFusion once paddling is stopped. But, for both versions,the Advanced Elements skeg solves any drifting problems. This is a “must have” for those that plan on being out in rougher waters.

Deflating the AirFusion Elite Kayak

To pack up your kayak, reverse your steps. Here are a few simple tips:

• Any lingering air can be pumped out using the “deflation” mode of your pump.
• There is a lot of pressure on the center floor beam (poles 1 and 2). You can simplify the breakdown by pushing in the center pin and twisting the tube out of the pushpin position while the kayak is still inflated. The pressure keeps the poles in a straight line and it is surprisingly easy. Then when deflated, push the sleeve back all the way, to separate the poles.
• To prevent losing the small sleeve #3, put it back on pole #1 and lock in place.

Short on time? Simply deflate the main air tubes, unsnap the floor tube, fold the kayak in half (with upper hull on the outside) and put in the back of your pickup. You can the lay it out to dry and fold up when you get home.

The Bottom Line on the AE1041 AirFusion Elite Kayak

The AirFusion Elite is a great kayak! While I always felt the original AirFusion was a winner, the new features on the AirFusion Elite kick it into the next level – it looks great, feels good, and performs beautifully.

And it’s fast.

Despite the longer 13 foot length, it is surprisingly easy to haul around. And with a combined weight of 36 lbs for the kayak in the carrying case, it’s a great candidate for travel.

Attention to small construction details – built-in sleeves, printed alignment lines/arrows, detailed instructions and the pole shock-cord system make assembly a breeze and ensure that everything is positioned correctly. While my initial setup took nearly an hour – this included photographs, writing notes and rereading the manual (in some areas three times) to make sure I was doing everything correctly – it is actually quite simple to set up. I’m sure I can get down to around 10 minutes.

The new design features – such as a wider beam and larger tube dimensions – make it very comfortable as well as feeling “more stable” for those with a higher center of gravity, while the integrated storage makes the kayak much more useful for those planning longer trips.

This is not the kayak for those that want a “pump and go” – to get the best performance, one needs to take a little time with set up. But the pay-off is worth it. The addition of the optional skeg will help immensely in windy conditions and larger swells.

We’ve said this before and it’s still true – constant innovation and excellent customer service are what keep Advanced Elements in the forefront of the inflatables market. By listening to their customers, Advanced Elements truly brings about the “evolution of inflatable kayaks” -  and the AirFusion Elite earns them another notch.

For more details or to purchase, visit the Advanced Elements AE1041 AirFusion Elite product page at AirKayaks.com.

At 13 feet in length and a weight of only 32 lbs, the AirFusion features a unique design blend of aluminum alloy frame poles and pressurized air tubes, resulting in a high-performance, rigid frame system. It’s sleek, it’s sporty – and it’s fast!

This is a Special Purchase Closeout of the AE1040 AirFusion kayak, which has been replaced with the AE1041 AirFusion Elite. Original priced with an MSRP of $829, AirKayaks is offering the kayak at $599 – new, boxed while supplies last.

AirKayaks is also offering bundled systems:

• AirFusion System with paddle and pump – $669
• AirFusion System Deluxe with paddle, pump and skirt – $709
• AirFusion System Ultra with paddle, pump, skirt and skeg – $769

For more details read our in-depth WordPress review on the AE1040 AirFusion. To purchase, visit the AirFusion product page at AirKayaks.com

Benefits of Inflatable Kayaks

So why choose an inflatable? The biggest reasons are portability and storage.

The ability to travel with an inflatable – either tossed into the back of your car or RV, taking mass transit, backpacking into remote areas or flying around the world – is appealing to many.

Inflatables also solve storage problems – the bags and backpacks can easily fit in a closet  or trunk of a car, and there is no need for cumbersome and expensive roof racks.

Many of the inflatables are lightweight – making it easier to manage – and can hold one, two, sometimes three paddlers, making it great for family fun.

Most are rugged and incredibly stable, appealing to those nervous about the water and leary of “tippy” hardshells. Many have hulls which can take scrapes, bumps and submerged sticks and logs without a blip. And in the remote chance that you do puncture your kayak, most can be easily repaired with the included maintenance kits. Simply cut a patch, put on glue, apply pressure and let sit overnight.

Inflatable Kayak Styles and Definitions

With the number of new inflatables hitting the market, there are now many styles to choose from for a wide range of water activities – from oceans to ponds, slow moving rivers to white water or wave running.

Here is an overview of some kayak styles to consider as well as some of the terms you might not be familiar with:

Self-bailing kayaks: These are typically used in whitewater situations. Self-bailing kayaks have numerous ports – or holes – located in the bottom of the kayak. When in a fast-moving whitewater situation, this allows water to enter the kayak and pass back out, ensuring the boat doesn’t fill up. Expect a wet ride. Conversely, if you are on calm water, water will come in through the floor ports unless the kayak has plugs that can be opened or closed. Many self-bailers don’t have tracking fins, meaning they may not perform as well in flat water.

Sit-on top kayak: An open design kayak. This is great for people who have difficulty getting in and out of an enclosed shell, those who tend to feel claustrophobic, and for those in warmer climates. Conversely, water will splash in more easily unless you have some type of spray deck.

Sit inside kayak: More of the traditional kayak design, with an enclosed cockpit. This is great for keeping water out of the kayak during inclement or colder weather and has the ability to attach a spray skirt, further expelling wind and water.

Canoe-style – this typically features an open design with higher walls and higher seats. Canoe-style paddlers often use canoe paddles (single-sided blades) rather than the double-sided kayak paddles.

Open style kayak design. This is a kayak version of the canoe style, featuring higher side walls than a sit-on-top but lower seats than canoe-style. Paddlers use the traditional double-sided kayak paddle. This hybrid is good for people who want easy entry, a more open design. The higher walls prevent more water from entering the kayak, but still is less enclosed. Some have optional spray decks to keep more water out, making them more enclosed.

Standup Paddle Board: This is the newest entry to the inflatables market and increasingly popular. Termed inflatable SUPS, or ISUPS, the boards can be pumped up to very high pressures of 10 to 25 PSI, making them quite rigid. Paddlers stand up while paddling, and these can be used for surfing, recreational paddling, downriver whitewater, racing and fishing. Some of these include d-rings, allowing on to attach a seat and use it as a “sit-on-top” or paddle kneeling.

Tracking fin: A fin located on the underside of the kayak, helping the kayak to “track” better (paddle straighter) and prevent some side-drift.

Fish-tailing: The shorter and lighterweight the kayak, the more it will have a tendency to “wag” – meaning, the nose will turn back and forth in the direction of the last paddle. This can be rectified by shallower, easier strokes, and sometimes by putting weight on the front hull.

Questions to Ask Yourself When Choosing Your Inflatable.

So you’ve recently seen people out kayaking, it looked heavenly to be out on the water and you’re ready to take the plunge. But, with all the styles on the market, where to begin? Now that you have the basics, there are a number of issues you may wish to consider when selecting an inflatable kayak. Here are the questions to ask yourself:

1) Do you want the ability to paddle with another person (tandem), do you wish to paddle solo or do you want both options.

Some people work well paddling with another, some don’t.  If you’re the type of person who wants to amble along at their own speed, then a single kayak might be right for you.

If you want both options, look for a kayak with various seating positions – typically with front and rear seat clips, as well as a center option. This allows you to move one seat to the center to paddle solo, while removing the extra seat. Kayaks with fixed seating areas can also work if you sit in the rear seating well, and put weight in the front.

Tandems with various seating positions can also be great for bringing your canine companion or the kids.

2) What type of water conditions will you typically encounter. Coastal, ocean, calm lakes, swells, whitewater, surf, moving rivers, etc.?

What works for whitewater will not work best for calm lakes. Decide if you want to be enclosed or more open. Will rain and wind, or heat be an issue? Do you need easy entry?

3) What is your size and height. How much weight will you need to carry?

Will you be comfortable in the kayak? Look at the design, leg room and width. If tall, is more of your length in the legs or torso? How much weight is needed for you and your gear, or two paddlers and gear – check this against the carrying capacity of the kayak

4) Will you be carrying a lot of paddling gear?

Look for something with various storage space or with attachment options to allow you to clip on storage bags to the top front and rear hull. Additionally, a tandem kayak that can be paddled solo will provide more space for gear.

5) Do you plan on long excursions, short paddles or all-day use. Will you be fishing or scuba diving?

This ties in with points 3 and 4. How much room do you need for yourself and supplies. Do you need camping gear for a week kayaking trip, or do you just want to hit the water for a few hours of relaxation. Do you need to easily get in and out of the kayak from the water.

6) What type weather or water temperatures will you be paddling in. Do you want the ability to use a spray skirt or do you prefer a more open design?

If you plan on paddling during stormy weather, winds or winter months, you may want a kayak with a spray skirt option. The spray skirt attaches to the kayak cockpit, and then to your chest, allowing you to keep out wind, spray and some of the chill.

If you’ll be out in lots of sun, you also might want something more enclosed, or on the opposite end, something that allows you to easily slide into the water to cool off.

7) Do you need a self-bailing option?

Self-bailing kayaks have holes in the bottom and are used predominantly for white water situations. As you travel through rapids, the water that spills inside will pass out through the holes. Conversely, if you are in calm channels, water will come back in. Some self-bailers feature plugs, allowing you to open or close the holes as needed.

If you plan on mostly calm water, lake, slow rivers or ocean kayaking, then you probably do not need a self-bailing option.

Some kayaks come with drain plugs, not to be confused with self-bailing. A drain plug allows you to drain out any water that might have dripped into the kayak.

8) What weight, length of kayak do you feel comfortable carrying around?

Test out various scenarios by carrying a pack or bag with different weights, so you can compare to the weight of the kayak in the carrying case.

A very long kayak might be a bit difficult to carry solo in high winds, but also note there are travel options – such as a breakdown dolly – that can make this task quite manageable.

9) Do you prefer more of a canoe-type paddle (sitting up higher from the water) or an enclosed type kayak that is lower in the water?

This is a personal preference and also depends upon the type of paddling – and paddling conditions -you will encounter.

10) Do you want a “pump-up-and-go” type kayak, or are you more detail-oriented and willing to spend more time setting a kayak up?

Most inflatables can be easily set up in 5 to 10 minutes – simply pump up the air chambers and you’re ready to paddle. This time an also be decreased with the use of a 12-volt pump to get the kayak partially inflated. Other – more performance-oriented – kayaks may take longer and have more parts/chambers. Are you more interested in getting onto the water, or are you willing to spend more time to get things right? At this point we wish to make one point about inflatables – if you will be out in cold water or air, pump the kayak up slightly more as the cold will cause the air to contract. Do the opposite if out in hot weather. And NEVER leave your kayak fully inflated in the hot sun – release some of the pressure.

Once you consider the points above, you’ll have a much better idea of which type of kayak to look at. Still have questions? Feel free to check out inflatable kayaks on our website at www.AirKayaks.com, email us at info@AirKayaks.com or call us at 707-998-0135.

As previously mentioned, the Innova line is unique in that their kayaks are handmade in the Czech Republic rather than China or Korea.

The Twist series is unique in that they utilize materials that are PVC-free, making them a greener option.

This week we had the first opportunity to take out the Innova Twist Double, an 11 foot 10-inch two-person inflatable weighing a mere 21 lbs with a selling price of $499.

Please note: Some of this information will be repeated from the Twist Single write-up.

Innova Double Twist: Getting Started

The box as received is incredibly small and incredibly light – only 18 x 12 x 8 inches with a weight of 25 lbs.

Inside is a plain drawstring sack, which houses the Twist II body, cinch strap, multiple instruction sheets, tracking fin, foot rest, repair kit, and valve adaptor. At 23 lbs for all this in the sack, and a folded size of 17 x 11 x 7 inches, the Twist II is certainly small enough to be considered travel carry-on luggage – with room leftover.

Innova Twist 2 Setup/Inflatation

We read through the included instruction manuals. As with all the Innova manuals to date, the instructions are quite detailed – there is one instruction sheet for fin installation, one for utilizing the valves, and another on the kayak in general. As the kayaks are made in Europe, many of the details are based around European specs and regulations and can sound daunting.

First step, unpack and unfold the kayak body. What is immediately noticeable is how FLAT the kayak is when deflated.

Install the tracking fin before inflating the kayak. The Twist II utilizes a single fin with double slots. Slip the end with the larger slot in first, making sure that the fin is pointing towards the “back” of the kayak. This enables it to slide in enough to fit in the second slot. While the first time can be a struggle to get the back side into position, after a couple of rounds it becomes quite easy.

Attach the two foot braces (these comes attached from the factory) by weaving the webbing through the floor connectors and back, but don’t bother to pump them up just yet.

The Innova Twist II features three main inflation chambers utilizing military valves – one for the floor and one for each side. The military-style plunger valve is simple to use – with your finger, twist the plunger slightly to the “up” position to inflate (air goes in but doesn’t come back out) and “down” to deflate (air comes out).

Locate the military valve adaptor in the repair canister. The Innova Twist II does not come with a pump, but the adaptor allows one to use the Boston valve conical adaptor found on most pumps.(AirKayaks note: Before doing ANYTHING, attach the adaptor to your pump with the string.) Lock the Innova adaptor onto the military valve with a slight twist, and push the conical adaptor in to friction fit the two. Since the Innova main chambers are inflated to 3 PSI, it is helpful to use a pump with pressure gauge to ensure the kayak is inflated appropriately.

Pump up the floor chamber first. If using a pressure gauge, please note that the pressure will only read while you are pumping, since most gauges work on back pressure. At 3 PSI, switch over to one side chamber. Pump up each side chamber until it reaches 3PSI. Screw on the valve caps to protect the plungers from sand and salt, or from accidentally being pressed. Please note – the military valve push pins can sometimes deceptively look as if they are UP while in the deflate mode. When this happens, as soon as you remove the pump adaptor all the air will swoosh out. So, make sure they are truly popped up. On the positive side, this is so easy to pump up, it’s not a big issue.

Now you can inflate the foot braces. These use a twistlock valve. The Boston valves will not friction fit over the twistlok so you will have to do one of three things – have a buddy hold the valve over the twistlock; carefully negotiate holding the adaptor and twistlock together with one hand while pumping with the other; or give up and blow it up with your mouth.

Pump up both the front and back paddler foot rests and push them into position.

What is unique in the Twist II is that the seats are an integral part/connected to the kayak. Each seat utilizes one twistlock valve – inflate this the same method as the brace, and then just “push it down” to create a back rest. There is no seat base; one sits on the floor chamber.

You’re done! The Twist II is remarkably easy and fast to set up – just over 5 minutes.

Deflation is just as easy. Simply turn the valves to the open position and push out the air. Remove the tracking fin, but you can leave the brace in place. Screw on the valve wing nuts for protection. Fold up the kayak and then roll up, to get it back into the backpack. As a side note, while you can press out most of the air and get the kayak back into the pack, to really minimize the size/footprint, it is best to pump out the final air, using the deflate mode on your pump. Turn the valves to the inflate position so air doesn’t creep back in, and replace the wing-nut caps.

Innova Twist II Kayak Features and Specifications

The Innova Twist II is constructed from LitePack, a polyester ripstop fabric that is single coated with rubber on the inside to increase air retension. This is treated with a Teflon water repellant to aid in drying and prevent staining. LitePack is PVC-free, making it more environmentally friendly than standard inflatables using PVC bladders – there is no out-gassing. And unlike many other inflatables, both the upper hull and underside utilize the same material.

There are three 3 PSI inflation chambers utilizing military valves (both sides and floor) and 4 Twistloks (2 backrests and 2 foot braces.)

The hull has a removable tracking fin measuring 4.5 inches tall and 7 inches wide, with sculpted i-beam tubes creating the hull shape.

As mentioned previously, the inflatable backrests are part of the hull body, so not adjustable; when inflated, the front seat forms a rigid “shelf” over the rear paddler’s feet, The front back rest measures 13″ high and 19 inches wide, and is positioned approximately 59 inches from the tip of the bow. The rear seat “shelf” partially covers the back storage, which also increases the rigidity as one rests against it. The back rest measures 13 inches tall by 14 inches wide, and is positioned approximately 43 inches from the front paddlers back rest.

Behind the seat is an “open” storage compartment with bungee deck lacing, which helps prevent belongings from falling overboard. The compartment is 33 inches long by 15 inches wide, tapering to 6 inches towards the stern. The seat back creates a 7-inch “covering” about 6 inches deep.

There are two low profile rope handles located each at the bow and stern, and two molded rubber handles on each side, but the kayak is so lightweight it is easy to hook it over your shoulder.

The inflatable foot braces are attached via a web clipping system. The front brace has three foot positions – by moving the brace and extending/shortening the webbing, these “rests” can be located from 25″ to 42″ from the seat back, giving lots of versatility. The rear brace measures 11 x 18 inches and has two positions; this can be placed about 29 to 40 inches from the seat back. There are two loops on each of the floor brace webs, allowing one to fasten gear if desired.

A spray railing/coaming lip sits up approximately 1 inch around the cockpit perimeter.

We did measurement tests. The Innova Twist II inflated is 142 inches long (11 feet, 10 inches) and approximately 32 inches at the widest point. Inner dimensions are roughly 15-16 inches wide with the seating well approximately 8 inches deep, plus the lip.

Total payload weight is 396 lbs. persons and gear.

Innova Double Twist On the Water

We tested out the Innova Twist Double over a couple of days.

First, my husband and I took it out for a short jaunt in slightly choppy water. The kayak is pretty rigid, rides fairly high in the water and is easy to paddle – the seating is also surprisingly comfortable. My husband – at 6’2″ – had to bend his knees quite a bit to fit behind the seat, and found this interfered with his paddling; he thought persons 5’10″ or less would be okay as a rear paddler. At 5’4″, I was quite comfortable in the front, but felt the snout was a little “high” in the water.

We returned to shore and swapped seats. Bingo. I had no problem with leg space in the rear seat, and he had no problem with leg space in the front. Additionally, his added weight caused the snout to ride a little lower, and paddle a bit better.

I then took the kayak out solo, sitting in the rear seating position. As with all lighter-weight kayaks, there will always be a certain amount of “wag” in the snout if weight is not equally positioned. This will be less noticeable with heavier people, or by adding weight to the front.

I then brought out my new paddling buddy – Woodie – on his maiden voyage. The added weight of 40 lbs in the front evened out the kayak, and it paddled smoothly. The kayak is roomy enough and tough enough for a canine companion – or a small child – in the front. While the material seems to be quite rugged, if bringing a dog you might want to put a towel on the floor to be on the safe side. What became quite apparent is that the Twist II is quite stable – despite Woodie’s repeated attempts to climb out and drink water, there was never a moment that the kayak felt tippy.

One thing to note – the “coaming lip” will prevent some water from splashing inside, but not all. As you are sitting on the kayak floor, you will get wet. At times like this, I found that by flipping back the inflatable foot brace, it worked great as a elevated seat base.

The Innova Twist II also turns on a dime.

My husband then tried the Twist II as a solo. Larger people can sit in the back and flip up (or deflate) the front seat, allowing their feet to fully extend while also leaving plenty of room for gear. While he found it to be quite roomy, he did feel the need to sit a little higher – the flipped-back foot brace worked well.

The rear storage well can fit a good amount of gear – both under and on top of the bungees. Backpacking vacationers might pick up more room by fastening a small pack between the front handle and the foot brace floor clip, utilizing the brace as a seat base.

On the beach, much of the water ran off, but under the waterline it took a little air-drying. Despite battling through patches of algae, it wiped pretty clean.

Innova Twist II Bottom Line:

The Innova Twist II is a perfect travel and backpacking companion for those that need a tandem option, or a larger kayak that can hold lots of travelling gear.

It’s rugged, at 21 lbs light-as-a-feather, and easily trekked into remote areas. The small folded footprint (no larger than a schoolbag) makes it a great choice for RVs, plane travel and those limited by space. It can easily be stored in the trunk of a car for spur of the minute activity. Set up is extremely easy, and barely takes 5 minutes.

The kayak is roomy enough for two – even for someone 6’2 inches – yet still offers a good amount of storage space in the rear well.

Those paddlers that just want to get out on the water, and have fun without a lot of fuss, will find the simplicity of the Double Twist quite appealing. Environmentally-conscious paddlers will find the PVC and China-free construction equally as attractive.

Parents wanting a lightweight and simple paddling option will find this is a great choice for enjoying the water with a child.

The Innova Twist II is good for paddling calm waters, mild swells, slow moving rivers – and small enough to make  exploration of distant waterscapes a reality. And if you want a smaller option, take a look at the Innova Twist I – an 8.5 foot single version weighing in at 16 lb.

For more information or to purchase, see the Innova Twist II product page on AirKayaks.com, or view the other Innova inflatable kayaks. Stay tuned for more product write-ups – in particular the Helios I and II. You can also watch our upcoming Innova Twist 2 YouTube video, which should be available within two weeks.

Deadline is June 1, 2013. The top three prize winners will receive…..

• 1st Prize: AdvancedFrame Sport kayak, foot pump and twilight Paddle ($500 value)
• 2nd Prize: Axis 230 fiberglass 4-part paddle ($130 value)
• 3rd Prize: RapidUp Kayak Sail ($100 value)

ELIGIBILITY: The Contest is open only to individuals who are Eighteen years or older at time of entry. All federal, state and local laws and regulations apply; void where prohibited.

ENTRY: All entrants must submit a photo with an Advanced Elements kayak/s or other AE product pictured in the photo. Two entries per person maximum.

To enter, email your photo to photo@advancedelements.com. Max file size 7MB per email.

Include your name, complete address, phone number, and email address, as well as a brief description of the photo.

Or mail your CD or DVD to:
Attn: Photo Contest
Advanced Elements, Inc.
P.O. Box 5128
Concord, CA 94524

Details:
All information provided by entrant must be complete, true and correct. Submissions to the Contest must be received by June 1, 2013 in order to be eligible; entries received after that date will be deemed ineligible to win. All submitted entries become the property of Advanced Elements and will not be acknowledged or returned; Advanced Elements is not responsible for lost, late, inaccurate, incomplete, damaged, illegible, or misdirected entries. Each entry must be submitted on an individual basis (i.e., no team, joint, or corporate entries) and all components of the entry must be the original creation of the submitting participant. Only non-commercial work may be submitted. Entries may not contain profanity, nudity, pornographic images, violent images, anti-competition messages, illegal material, or material that violates the rights of third parties. Entries may not include confidential information, trade secrets, trademarks or copyrighted material belonging to any person or entity other than the entrant absent a suitable license or permission agreement, proof of which is required. Entries containing any forbidden matter or material otherwise deemed by Advanced Elements to be inappropriate will be disqualified. Online entries will be deemed submitted by the authorized account holder of the email address submitted at time of entry. Two entries per person maximum.

PRIZE AWARDS: Prizes will be awarded within sixty (60) days after winner verification. Winner is responsible for all shipping charges, or prize may be picked up at Advanced Elements in Benicia, CA. All taxes and any other incidental expenses on prizes are the sole responsibility of each winner.

If you would like to share other photos, outside of the contest, please post to flickr.com into Advanced Elements group.

GENERAL RULES & LIMITATIONS: By entering, you represent that: (i) your entry is your own original work; and (ii) you own or have the rights to convey any and all right and title in any material submitted as part of your entry into the Contest. By entering, you grant to Advanced Elements a non-exclusive, worldwide, royalty-free license to edit, publish, promote, republish at any time in the future and otherwise use your submission, along with your name and likeness, in any and all media for any purpose, without further permission, notice or compensation (except where prohibited by law). By participating in the Contest, you agree to release Advanced Elements and its affiliates, subsidiaries, employees, directors, officers, and agents from any and all liability, claims or actions of any kind whatsoever for injuries, damages or losses to persons and property which may be sustained in connection with the receipt, ownership, possession, use, or misuse of any prize. Advanced Elements reserves the right to amend these official rules and to disqualify permanently from the Contest any person it believes has intentionally violated these official rules.

With the help of John Hibbard of Red Paddle Company, and Tim Meakin of Coastal Sports, we’ve put together a table (below) that will hopefully take away some of the guesswork and confusing options when looking at the Red Air ISUPs.

For 2013, Red Paddle Company offers 7 models ranging in size from 9 ft 2 inches to 12 ft. 6 inches. Each of the boards can be pumped up from 15 to 25 PSI.

How do you use this table? First, ascertain your size from the list:

• Big & Tall – 210+ lbs and 6’1″ plus inches in height
• Average – 140-200 lbs, 5’7″ to 6’0″ inches in height
• Small – Under 140 lbs, Under 5’7″ inches in height
• Child – Under 100 lbs, under 5’0 inches in height

Then decide the type of paddling you want to do (paddling situations):

• Touring – Ocean, waves, long paddles, camping
• Recreational – Lakes, sloughs, slower rivers, coastal, calm
• Whitewater – Downriver whitewater activities
• Surfing
• Fishing
• Racing

Rank your experience level, realizing that the more you get out on the water, the better you will get. More experienced paddlers can get away with smaller boards. Last of all, will this be used by various members of the family? Do you want the ability to bring along a child, dog or gear? Might two people be on this together?

• Multi Paddlers/Family: Two small adults, Adult and child or dog.
• Beginner
• Intermediate/Medium
• Advanced Paddler

Follow the color key to decide what board is good for varying sizes and activities:

• Blue – The board is great!
• Green – The board is good.
• Yellow – This board is not recommended.

For instance, if you were 5 feet 10 inches with a weight of 180 lbs, and surfing was the highest priority with a bit of recreational paddling, the Surfer 10-0 would be a good choice. But, if you wished to do predominantly recreational paddling with a bit of surf, the Ride 10-6 would be best.

If you are having trouble viewing the details in the table,  follow this link for a larger and printable version of the Choosing Your Red Air Inflatable Paddle Board ISUP.

Why are there varying board thicknesses?

Some of the larger boards feature heavier drop-stitch materials, thus making the boards thicker. What does this mean? The thicker the board (and larger the board) the greater the air volume. This will increase the board rigidity at lower pressures. The Ride and Mega boards – constructed from 120mm materials – will have roughly 20% greater ridigity at 15 PSI than the 100mm material boards (Surf Star, Surfer, All Water), thus will carry more weight. The 150mm material boards – such as the Race and Explorer – will exhibit roughly 50% greater rigidity. But, the 100mm boards (as well as the 150mm Race) have been beefed up with the Rocker Stiffening System (RSS), which also gives them a roughly 20% boost over the 100mm boards built by other manufacturers.

Once you’ve narrowed down your choices, you can view details on the various Red Air Inflatable SUPS at http://www.AirKayaks.com. You can also read the following reviews on our blog:

• The Incredibly Rugged 15-25 PSI Red Air 10’6 Ride Inflatable SUP from Red Paddle Co.
• New Red Air Twelve Six Explorer Inflatable SUP from Red Paddle Co.
• Product Review: The Red Air Twelve Six Race Inflatable SUP from Red Paddle Co.
• The 15-25 PSI Red Air 9’6 All Water Inflatable SUP with RSS Side Rockers!

So get out and enjoy!

Features include:

• Neoprene foam padding on top of side chambers for more comfort
• Extra strong 840 denier Nylon Oxford with polyurethane coating for the floor covering and top of side chambers.
• Super-tough 1000 denier bottom fabric for added strength, durability and abrasion resistance.
• Adjustable, zippering seats with integrated closed cell foam provide excellent back support and comfort.
• Multiple  D-rings  on the side tubes
• Directional strakes and removable skeg for better tracking

The Cayman III inflatable kayak weighs 40lbs, is 37.5 inches wide and has a carrying capacity of 550 lbs. The package includes 3 seats, carrying case, pump, two paddles, removable tracking fin and repair kit.

The Maxxon Cayman III will be available in early April, with an MSRP of $649. For details, watch the website at www.AirKayaks.com.

The spray decks keep water and wind out during chilly or inclement weather, while the coaming tubes allow you to attach optional spray skirts for even more protection from the elements. There are two deck options – the single for solo paddling and the double for tandem paddling.

Installing the Convertible Spray Decks

The decks are quite portable. They each arrive rolled up in separate mesh bags measuring 25 x 8 x 3 to 4 inches – the single deck weighs approximately 4 lbs while the double deck weighs 3.85 lbs.

There are no instructions included, but installing the decks are pretty simple. The kayak needs to be fairly deflated to get the zippers attached – I have managed to install them inflated but it’s tough, and you don’t want to put too much pressure on the zippers. If your kayak is already inflated, then deflate the outer main valve enough that it is “saggy.”

Your Convertible has a “hidden” half zipper running around the open cockpit, which matches up with the zipper on the spray deck.

To install the double deck, roll out the deck across the kayak, with the velcro strip towards the kayak bow and the zipper head towards the stern. There is a matching zipper head on the kayak zipper.

Insert the flat zipper end on the deck into the zipper head on the kayak, and then the flat zipper end of the kayak into the zipper head on the deck. Pull the zippers around until you reach the front velcro tab – unbuckle the clip, slip the velcro underneath and then reclip. The velcro tab helps keep water from dripping in at the “connection points.”

Continue by pumping up your kayak in the standard manner – the outer valve first, then the inner and then the floor. Inflate the deck lifts. Then, inflate the four coaming tube twistloks (2 per seat) using the conical Boston valve adaptor, which slips over the twistloks. Each tube inflates with just one or two pumps. The coaming tubes help deflect water, but also can be used to attach optional spray skirts. Install the thwart, attach the seats. Done!

The single deck has a slightly different set of instructions – while you might be able to utilize the new rear hatch-access, it is tough getting to some of the inflation valves. First pump up the inner main chamber until it starts to fill out, then pump up the front deck lifts. Now follow the same instructions for attaching the deck (attach the two zippers, zip up the deck and place the velcro tab under the buckle).

Finish pumping up the kayak using the outer main chamber, then the floor. (Please note: if using the dropstitch floor rather than the standard floor, pump this up initially after the inner chamber, as the inflation valve is at the far rear and not easily accessible when the deck is in place).

The single deck does not use the thwart, so pump up the two coaming tubes around the cockpit opening and attach the seat. Done!

Features and Specifications of the Convertible Spray Decks:

The deck material is the same diamond ripstop material and comes in two colors – red (available late spring 2013) and blue (currently available) – to match the standard Convertible AE1007, as well as the Convertible DS Series AE1007DS. Both decks have outer dimensions of 86 inches long by 25.5 inches wide, with cockpit openings of 30 x 18 inches.

The double deck has one “stiffening rod” in the center between the two seating areas, which helps maintain shape/prevent water from pooling. The front paddler has approximately 53 inches of leg room from the seat back to the front interior, while the back paddler has approximately 43 inches. There is 19 inches of “deck top” between the two paddlers. The new double decks feature a mesh pocket measuring 13 x 4 inches, with a velcro closure, in front of the rear paddler. Surrounding this are four d-rings spaced 14 x 16 inches apart, perfect for attaching gear and bungee lacing.

The single deck has undergone a major facelift. One arched “deck-riser” aluminum stay is located in front of the paddler, giving enough lift that water will run off rather than pooling. The is one front d-ring, and another 4 d-rings spaced 11-14 by 12 inches apart with bungee deck lacing – this is a great touch because it is impossible to reach the front bungee deck lacing while paddling, and the addition of the fifth ring allows one to use a Rapidup sail while solo paddling.

Behind the paddler, a new roll-top Cargo Hatch Access allows one to easily store or retrieve gear.

The roll top opening is 16 x 9 inches, with a velcro-ing hatch cover. This is surrounded by an additional 4 d-rings spaced 15 to 18 inches by 12 inches, allowing one to add even more bungee lacing or more gear attachments. There are 57 inches of legroom in front, and 32 inches of potential interior storage space behind the seat, or 36 inches on the upper hull.

Convertible Kayak with Spray Decks on the Water

Both the single and double decks are easy to put on, take up minimal space, and can provide much additional “deck top” real estate for storage.

Thick cording runs the kayak circumference, covering the zippers to further deflect water; the only thing to note is that water can drip in through the small rear gap where the two zippers come together. The new arched riser in the single deck should negate problems some customers had with the old decks in which water sometimes pooled. Please note that we have not experienced pooling, but also have not been out in very choppy weather.

The addition of the decks also gives a slight structural boost to the Convertible.

Convertible Kayak Spray Decks – Bottom Line:

The new spray decks are a great addition, and really kick up the versatility of the Convertible as well as giving it a streamlined look. The enhanced single deck – particularly in a Convertible with the dropstitch floor or backbone – turns the kayak into a great solo option for bigger and taller people, and those that plan on long-term excursions. Perfect when you want to 1) keep out of the sun 2) protect from wind 3) reduce the amount of water entering the kayak or 4) store gear undercover or 5) add a spray skirt. And then there are some people (like me) who prefer the more enclosed feeling. These are just two more options that further expand the versatility of the Advanced Elements Convertible, making it a classic, all-time winner.

Watch our YouTube video on the Convertible spray deck installation and features.

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For more info visit the product pages for the AE2021 Convertible Single Deck and the AE2022 Convertible Double Deck at http://www.AirKayaks.com as well as the Advanced Elements AE1007 Convertible Kayak. While the new decks are currently available for the blue Convertible DS Series, the new “standard” orange convertible decks will be available late spring, 2013. MSRP $59.99 and $82.99.

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For more details, see the product detail pages for the Convertible Single Deck, or the Convertible Double Deck at AirKayaks.com